This will be something that’s hard for me to write. This is not the kind of thing I’m really comfortable talking or writing about. However, I think it’s probably cathartic and there’s always the slightest chance talking about what you’ve been experiencing might help someone else.
So, where to begin? In August 2022, I had to take my Labrador, Cooper, to the emergency vet. There was some unusual behavior – he was trying to urinate and then shifting into try to defecate and not being productive with either. We decided to take him in first thing the next morning. Right before walking into the emergency vet, there was blood in his urine…and I knew we were in the right place. Our immediate issue was a urinary tract infection, but I could tell the doctor was concerned when she was discussing she could tell he had an enlarged prostate. They got him on antibiotics and pain relief straight away, and he remained overnight so that he could see a specialist for more testing. He had x-rays and fine needle aspiration biopsies in suspicious areas. We were able to go pick him up the next morning and he was already living a better life (and sporting a bald tummy). Over the course of the next few weeks, we ultimately learned that Cooper had prostate cancer. We circled back around getting him into our regular veterinarian and discussed our options. For the short term he seemed to bounce back really to his normal state with some abatement of the UTI, and we started him on carprofen (an NSAID) which has shown to be beneficial in treatment of prostate cancer in canines. I believe the concept is that the anti-inflammatory drugs help to prevent tumor growth. We researched chemotherapy and radiation treatments, and we did schedule a visit with a specialist that walked us through our potential treatment plans and life expectancies of each. It was a very tough decision, but with Cooper already 10 years old…we ultimately could not justify changing his life so drastically by taking on these treatments. Especially, with no certainty he would gain more time with quality life. We decided the best thing for him was to let him keep doing all the things that he loved and maintain good quality of life for as long as we good. I’m happy to say we had almost another year from that first trip to the ER. We had walks, we had agility, we had snuggles, we had swims… We had cycles where the persistent UTI (that sometimes goes hand in hand with the prostate cancer) would get worse, and we would treat with some antibiotics and get a bounce back. Each time though, it was like he bounced back a little less and the cycles where we were having poor days and difficulty were getting closer together. Eventually, the day came where we were no longer able to get him relief and we knew it was time…we could not watch him suffer.
This period of nearly ten months from August 2022 to May 2023 – feels a bit like a black hole. I’m not sure I could tell you all the other things that happened during that time. We really tried to stay hyper focused on keeping Cooper’s quality of life high. There are some stand out things (stresses? on top of stress?) that I do remember from this time: I had to move my business to a new location (after being in the same location for 11 years). I became a moderator in a fairly large whiskey club. In my new business location, there was a water leak in my studio – I came in to water in my room one November morning (which also happened to be when my husband was out of the country). That same week he was out of the country – my truck died and needed a new battery (a pretty easy fix), some critter got into one of the upstairs AC unit fans (it stopped working…and smelled), and also that week my friend was in the ER/hospitalized. We didn’t travel for Thanksgiving or Christmas because we didn’t want to be far from our known veterinarians (if needed).
I actually have a hard time remembering what happened when…or even what year. Then, after he was gone- the grief hit. In one way, it was a relief to not have so much focus on if Cooper was eating or experiencing discomfort. I did not expect his absence to affect me the way that it did. Cooper was not just my around the house dog…we did things together. We went to agility classes weekly for 10 years. Overnight, I felt like my routine was totally changed. I struggled, and I cried all the time. I realized I was exhausted physically and mentally…I had not been sleeping well. It was probably hard for me to know then, but I think I realize now – I was experiencing a form of depression. It was a little easier to “keep up routine” in those last 10 months with Cooper. After he was gone, I didn’t want to do much. Motivation was at an all time low…I quit going to the gym…I gained weight. I beat myself up for both. I struggled to be in groups outside the house. I withdrew a bit. It was a period of numbness.
Finally, sometime around the end of September I decided I had to come up with some way to make a new routine. I decided to take Hendrix for a walk every morning. At that point my most consistent habit was having coffee. I decided I would make my coffee, and take her on a walk….it didn’t matter how far. We did that every day, and it was one of the best things for my mental health. The walks gradually got longer, and my mental load got a bit lighter. I began to think again about things that brought me joy. I started cooking a little more, and I finally travelled a bit. I found out my dad would start a course of radiation for his prostate cancer, and I decided I would come to visit him every month before his treatments started.
I was only starting to climb out of the hole, and able to actually reflect on the numbness, depression and keeping up that had swallowed up days/months… It’s was hard to start that reflection and face/admit that I was struggling. I realized I had probably internalized too much. I had felt embarrassed about how deeply the loss was affecting me. I didn’t feel comfortable talking to many about it (outside of Ronald). I didn’t want to appear to others as someone who had outsized grief for the loss of “just a pet”. I felt I should not be struggling as much as I was…that there were people with bigger problems/struggles than mine. I felt I would look silly to people if I talked to much about it. As I was recounting these things, I tried to give them space, give myself grace and process them. I was starting to see this as a process, and that I needed to care for myself and be kind. Negative emotions are normal – especially when life deals you loss and stress.
At the beginning of 2024, things were starting to resemble normal again. Ronald and I started working out together 2 times a week. I found some new interests – crocheting amigurumi and baking. We planned a trip returning to Europe for the first time since 2019. In May, I rucked 100 miles in memory of Cooper. The one year mark of his passing coincided with our trip to Europe, and we took some time out to remember him and what should’ve been his 12 birthday.
It’s probably taken this much time since we lost Cooper to be able to write any of this. Fortunately, I don’t feel buried and consumed with deep unhappiness like I did there for a bit. Working through grief is a process and requires taking care of yourself and protecting your mental health. Even now, I still feel a bit of anxiousness writing any of this – like I know there are people who’ve lost children, family, friends, etc. I think, “Other people have been through so much more!” I just have to remember all feelings are valid, and processing them is important.
I didn’t feel much like adding photos to this post, but then I remembered this video I made the day we said goodbye – mostly for Ronald and I. Previously, I only shared it with our veterinarian as a thank you for helping us so much in giving Cooper as many of the best possible days for as long as we could. He really did have a wonderful and lengthy farewell tour. 🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤🖤
Ronald and I had a chance to make a quick trip to NYC in October. We had not been back since 2017, and we were overdue.
I had compiled quite a running list of great bars/cocktails and pizza joints I wanted to check out. I also really wanted to take a pizza tour with Scott’s Pizza Tours. I think I’ve been following Scott on social media since like 2009. My recent dive into making pizza at home – had me revisiting his videos, posts, reviews, etc. I decided it was time! I asked Ronald if that sounded fun to him – and he said “Yes!”
We stayed at the Intercontinental Barclay in Midtown Manhattan. It’s a nice and historic hotel and a fabulous location for adventures in the big city. The Barclay was one of several large hotels developed around Grand Central Terminal as part of Terminal City, and it opened in 1926.
Intercontinental Barclay lobbyBees Knees in The Parlour bar at the Barclay
quick tour of our room at the Intercontinental Barclay
We had some significant travel/flight delays…and fortunately I was able to adjust our first reservation at Red Hook Tavern from 5p to 9p. We arrived at LaGuardia, grabbed a ride and managed to get checked in and catch our breath before heading off to dinner.
Red Hook Tavern was amazing! It’s a small and cozy place with a great looking bar centric set up. Ronald started with a Spanish Gibson (Choice of Vodka or London Dry Gin, Atxa Vino Vermouth, charred onion, rosemary) and it was a divine savory gin martini. I started with the Dukes Martini (Overproof Gin & Vodka, Amalfi lemon oil, salted cucumber, Chambéry Vermouth, gordal olive) and it was also amazing, but I give the edge to the Gibson. We also got things going with an order of the Country Ham Croquettes (one-year aged white cheddar, dijonnaise, rye bread crumbs). For dinner, we had the Cavatelli (oxtail ragu, garlic breadcrumbs) and the very famous Dry-Aged Red Hook Tavern Burger (American cheese, white onion, frites). Holy 💩! Everything was amazing, and that burger lived up to the hype. Many people say it’s the best burger in NYC, and I’d be hard pressed to argue with that. It’s certainly one of the very best burgers that Ronald and I have had. We closed out with the Fior di Latte Gelato with homemade hot fudge and candied pecans. Full and happy – we made our way back to Manhattan and crashed out.
country ham croquettesSpanish GibsonDukes MartiniCavatelliBURGER!!Fior di Latte GelatoRed Hook Tavern
Day two – we started slow. The breakfast buffet was still being served downstairs, and we hit that up. We cleaned up and decided to take a stroll with no particular destination in mind. We ended up walking a bit in Central Park. We hung out on a bench for a bit – enjoying the weather. We thought it might be fun to check out the crowd at Rockefeller Center, and we ducked in Blue Bottle Coffee for a caffeine upgrade. We started making our way back to the hotel, and walked past the Nintendo store. We couldn’t resist a brief stop in. We had worn off our breakfast, and we needed a snack to tide us over before dinner. Ronald wanted to make an unofficial start to our NYC pizza tour by quality checking the lower range offerings. 99¢ Fresh Pizza is iconic in NYC. Inflation has pretty much led to most dollar/99¢ shops upping their prices. While it’s certainly not gourmet pizza…it certainly fills a need and is probably made as well as it can be for the cost.
breakfast in The Parlour at the BarclayCentral Parkpeople watching in Central ParkRockefeller CenterBlue Bottle CoffeeLink at the Nintendo Storehistorical devides at the Nintendo StoreArt?Ronald wanted to start our pizza deep dive at the lower end of the market$1.50 Fresh Slice
After a brief down spell back at the hotel, we made our way to the spot at the top of my cocktail/bar list – The Coop at Double Chicken Please. Let me just say- the prospect of getting in to this highly acclaimed and lauded bar was daunting to say the least. I expected a line…and maybe to even be turned away and have to try again. While instinct would tell you to get in line early. I decided we should arrive around opening or just a bit before. When we did arrive there was a LONG line 🤯 – I estimated about 70-100 in front of us.
Line ahead of us around opening time for Double Chicken Please
I was actually hoping that we would miss the first seating, and be put on the list to return for maybe the second. We arrived about 5 min before their 5p opening, and we moved through the line very quickly. We were at the host stand in about 15 min. We were informed the expected wait for 2 for The Coop was about 90 min. They took my number and said they would text me when my table was ready – you have 10 min to respond to the text and then 10 minutes after your response to present yourself at the host stand. This worked out perfectly. Instead of having to captively hold a spot in line for an hour plus to be in that first seating – we took the opportunity to walk around the corner to Bar Contra during our 90 minutes wait (I’ll tell you about that next).
We wrapped up at Bar Contra and started making our way back in the direction of Double Chicken Please. Before we made it very far, I got a text our table was ready. Perfect timing! We were taken to some seats at the end of the bar. I love being able to see what’s going on at the bar, and DCP definitely has an interesting set up.
Red Eye GravyKey Lime PieHot Honey chicken sandwich
All I can say about the cocktails AND the food is WOW! We started with two cocktails – the Red Eye Gravy and Mango Sticky Rice. Crazy cocktail names? The cocktails are reinventions of iconic dishes/foods. Red Eye Gravy (Teeling Irish Whiskey, coffee butter, corn, walnut, wild mushroom, and microwaved coppa) blew my mind. It’s like brunch/breakfast in a glass. It delivers sweet and savory notes in complete harmony and absolutely makes your brain go to that place of hot coffee, ham, cornbread (or biscuits). Mango Sticky Rice is a stunner as well (Barcardi Reserva Ocha Rum mango) – it drinks EXACTLY like the classic Thai dessert. The funniest thing I probably said while we were here is, “So, I don’t usually ever like chicken liver mousse or pâté, but I feel like we should order theirs.” I’m so glad that we did order the chicken liver mousse because it may actually be my favorite taste from the whole trip (maybe even of the year…but that’s a hard one…we were in Italy in May 🤣). Something about the combination of the bread/rich mousse and the added drizzle of HOT HONEY won me over. We also had some of their infamous Taiwanese-inspired fried chicken sandwiches. I had the Hot Honey version and Ronald had the Salted Egg Yolk version. They both were really delicious. Our favorite drink was the Key Lime Pie (Bombay Sapphire Gin, The Plum, I Suppose, winter melon, sweet cream, egg white, lime, soda). It was just a perfect balance between tart and sweet and an addictive sip. I was really looking forward to the French Toast cocktail. I had seen a video showcasing all the prep that goes into making the drink. However, I was a bit disappointed in this one. I’d certainly give it a try again, but it felt kind of flat for me (especially by comparison to everything else). Perhaps, I was already in palate fatigue 😂.
Ok – let me rewind and talk about Bar Contra. This one needs a little backstory. I’m a cocktail ?nerd?. I have a book called Liquid Intelligence: The Art and Science of the Perfect Cocktail by Dave Arnold (prior link is an advertisement – as an Amazon Associate I earn commissions from qualifying purchases). (Here’s a really great article on the impact of this book which also won a James Bear award for Best Beverage Book in 2015.) I’ve been following Dave and all his many adventures since I got my copy in 2019. I also had a Searzall torch (prior link is an advertisement – as an Amazon Associate I earn commissions from qualifying purchases)- many years before I really knew who Dave was. More recently, I got a Spinzall 2.0 – essentially a culinary centrifuge invented/made by Dave Arnold. I made mental note in July 2024 that a new Dave Arnold project/bar had opened called Bar Contra. We slipped in right at opening (no lines here). Ronald ordred the Sea Witch (frozen, aquavit, grapefruit, strega, lemon) and I ordered Fantasy Island (white rum, mezcal, blanc vermouth, and strawberry cordial). I don’t know how to explain the drinks here – they are just perfectly engineered and executed. The Sea Witch was bright, refreshing and exactly as the menu said not too bitter and not too sweet. Ronald loved it – which is very high praise. He is always game to go on cocktail adventures with me, but he doesn’t actually care that much about drinking them these days. The Fantasy Island was also delightful and a real compliment to strawberries. As we were sitting, the conversations being had by the bartenders and the only other guests (some other bar/spirits industry folks I think) were so nerdy I simply was overrun with glee. There was a deep dive into coupe manufacturers and the capacity of one vs another even though they looked the same…they were not. Also, there were discussions of oxidized flavors in fortified wines. I can’t remember them all, but the cute thing is even Ronald noticed them and would look at me like…”hey, do you hear them speaking your secret language??” Then, I heard a voice, and I immediately recognized it as Dave’s. I started fidgeting 😂. I told Ronald, “You’re not gonna believe this but I’m gonna ask to take a picture with him.” If you know me, I’m not one to be star stuck or bedazzled, but I guess we all have our exceptions. He was very gracious and kind, and he asked me before the photo “do you want normal or crazy eyes?” Lol! A lot (most) of his instagram photos involve posing with crazy eyes. I opted for the crazy. I also thoroughly enjoyed a conversation with one of the bartenders, Theo. We talked clarifying strawberries and acid adjusting a cordial made with clarified strawberries. I got some recipe tips and all. My cocktail nerd heart was flying.
Fantasy IslandDave Arnold aka @cookingissues
At the end of this day I felt like all the cocktail and culinary itches had been thoroughly scratched. 😅. Totally, stuffed to the gills after DCP…we headed back to the hotel and crashed out.
Day 3 – we started the morning with some coffee at the intriguing Ole & Steen just outside the entrance of the hotel. It’s a Danish bakery chain, and our previous walks past the windows had us reminiscing about Swedish bakeries. Sadly, we did not find the coffee nor the pastries very inspiring. We decided to make our way to Brooklyn for the afternoon, and our first stop was Paulie Gee’s Slice Shop. It’s a short walk away from the original Greenpoint Paulie Gee’s location (they serve wood fired pizza and Ronald and I visited there on both of our previous tripsto NYC). Paul Giannone, aka Paulie Gee, is a pizza icon. We first saw this name on the menu of Deep Ellum (Dallas) pizzeria Cane Rosso. That breadcrumb is what took us to Paulie Gee’s the first time, and it didn’t disappoint. I actually got to meet Paulie on our very first visit in 2015…he is quite a character. The slice shop opened since our last trip – so naturally, it was on our list to check out. It’s counter service and a more casual throwback vibe. Paulie has worked to recreate the slice shops he has fond memories of from his youth. I had a square slice of Hellboy® (a pepperoni pie with Mike’s Hot Honey and a sesame seed bottom) and Ronald had a square slice of Freddy Prinze (upside Sicilian, fresh mozzarella, tomato sauce, Pecorino Romano and a sesame seed bottom). Wow! Both slices were big winners in our book. I absolutely love sesame seeds…and the addition of it to the bottom of these pies is just perfection!
Paulie Gee’s Slice Shopup front – Hellboy in back – Freddy Prinze
There were some schedule changes in effect for the subway, and that made our next stop quite an adventure. We were underground for a while, and walking for a while. However, it was a pleasant day in Brooklyn and we just took in all the sights and sounds. I had bookmarked this spot called Laurel bakery (who even knows anymore how I come across these kinds of things 😆). It was nestled in a more residential/neighborhood area. We had a coffee and I had a slice of bostock. Their version is croissant dough baked in loaf shape, topped with frangipane and sliced almonds and baked again. The coffee was excellent and I enjoyed the bostock (almonds/frangipane are some more of my utter favorite things). I only wish we were able to arrived a littler earlier to see what the other pastry options were – but regardless I would’ve still ordred bostock.
Laurel Bakery’s bostock and a cappuccino
We transited our way back to the hotel to get some recovery in before heading out for the evening adventures.
Amor y Amargo and Death & Company have loooooong be on my to do list. They are almost right next to each other in the East Village. Sother Teague’s famous bitters tasting room, Amor y Amargo was exactly as I expected and imagined. Interesting bottles of cocktail bitters and various bitter liqueurs EVERYWHERE! Standing room only in the bar – and we were quickly able to grab a spot and get a drink. I had the 8 Amaro Sazerac (a blend of amari, Chartreuse and Peychaud’s bitters) Ronald had the Bermuda Triangle (Montenegro, Nonino, Allspice Dram, Bourbon, Overproof Rum, Remedy Toasted Coconut bitters, and Regan’s Orange bitters). Both cocktails were complex and balanced and quite enjoyable.
We headed over to Death & Co. We had a round of drinks – I had Sunshower (Russell’s Reserve 6yr Rye Whiskey, Mezcal, Amaro Pasubio, Faretti, Cucumber Bitters) and Ronald had Queen of the Night (Hibiki Harmony Japanese Whisky, Amabuki Junmai Sake, Cap Corse Rouge, Strawberry, Aperol). It’s quite dark and cozy in D&C and we were off on the side (couldn’t see too much at the bar and no table space). So, we didn’t get many photos.
Death & Co., NYC
By this time, we had worked up an appetite for something substantial to eat. We discovered the famous Katz’s deli was a short 10 min walk away…off we went. There was a line, but it moved very quickly. The deli was PACKED! We opted for sit down service – we didn’t want to end up at one of the cutter stations not knowing what we wanted 😆. Ronald got a huge meal that had everything (so we could try it all) and I got a pastrami on rye. I now dream of pastrami, every day. I also ordered a chocolate egg cream because I know it’s a historic drink and I had never had one.
Katz’s Delithe crowd inside Katz’sso much pastrami…so good…
That pretty much closed our night. We had a walk to the subway filled with fun SoHo/NoLita nightlife sights.
For our final full day in NYC we went on the Sunday Bus edition of Scott’s Pizza tours – I will write about that separately. After that tour, since we were already down in the Financial District area, we decided to walk over to The Dead Rabbit and see if we could get into their The Parlor bar. We were in luck (probably because close to The Parlor’s opening) and were taken to some seats at the bar. This was also our second visit here, and let me just say we were wowed by the beautiful cocktail menu and the artful execution of flavors in our drinks.
We shared Hop Too (Don Julio Blanco Tequila, Passionfruit, Citra Hops, Long Hots, Pineapple, Lemon) and Flight Plan (Hacienda Santa Ana 138° & Hampden Estate 5yr Rums, Plantain, Sesame, Shiso, Lemon). The were just liquid flavor sparks! Each took you on so many directions, but they were still balanced and not over done. The menu and menu art were absolutely STUNNING. I wanted to ask about buying the menu book…it was so gorgeous and inspiring.
We had a bit of an earlier turn in after quite a full day. We took the opportunity to get packed and ready for an early flight on Monday morning. Later in the evening, Ronald decided he was getting a bit hungry, and I said I had bookmarked a spot/cart near the hotel called King of Falafel & Shawarma. So, he went out and made the short walk to get a combination of chicken and falafel. No photos as there was no place to take one on the street and it didn’t look particularly “pretty” by the time it was walked back to the dim hotel room. Neverthless, it was FANTASTIC. The falafel were so delicious. Definitely recommend it!
We certainly knocked quite a few things off my must do list, but I still have more on the list 🤔. Until next time NYC…🫡
We took a high speed train from Bologna Centrale to Florence, and the trip took about 40 minutes. I love that what would’ve taken about two hours driving can be cut down to a much more manageable time for a day trip.
As soon as we stepped off the train at Santa Maria Novella (the main train station in Florence) we were smacked with the observation that there were a lot more tourists in Florence than Bologna and Modena. A large group of people seemed to be waiting outside the train platform area – apparently many were waiting for platform information to be posted/announced on the departure boards. When we left later in the day, we had to do the same thing….it seems like the departure platform was only posted 15 minutes before departure. This was also the only station (in the three cities we visited) that had a security/ticket check in order to access the platforms.
I had the unfortunate circumstance of getting sick the night before we visited Florence. Fortunately, I did get into a pharmacy and was able to get some decongestant medication that helped immensely. The whole scenario did make me a little less enthusiastic than one should be about being in the birthplace of the Renaissance. Even though it was a quick in and out day trip and I didn’t feel great – I’m glad we were able to see a little glimpse of this iconic city.
Ronald wanted to see what the lines looked like for the Accademia Gallery (home to Michelangelo’s famous statue of David. We knew the lines would like be wild, and we were already under the impression that would would probably not be able to go in without a reservation and/or very long wait. As we navigated the 15 minute walk through narrow streets/sidewalks, crowds and the heat…I very quickly missed the Bolognese porticos. Not surprisingly there was an overwhelming crowd and lines of people WITH tickets/reservations awaiting their entrance times at the Accademia.
So, we then headed over to Mercato Centrale. This market is located in the San Lorenzo neighborhood just around the corner from the Duomo. The structure was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni and built in 1843. The typicaly 19th century building of iron and glass somewhat resembles a greenhouse and it essentially transformed the ancient city market in piazza della Repubblica to what it is today. When we walked in, there were people everywhere. The first floor is pimarily stalls and shops with meats, cheese, produce, oil, vinegar, wine, breads, pastries and more. There are also a few vendors where you can order food and small sections to sit and eat. The second floor is almost like a food court – filled with stalls serving a variety of dishes/foods and drinks. I quickly spied a mezzanine level perched above the food court tables. I noticed only a few people were sitting up there and I noticed arrows up a stairway indicating a pizzeria. I suggested we go check that out.
We were able to sit in relative comfort above the bustling crowd, and people watch while we ate…exactly what I needed.
view from the mezzanine at Mercato Centrale
I’m not usually one to pick my food based on where I get to sit to eat it…but the Neapolitan style pizza was great. I had a glass of Prosecco, and we finished everything off with tiramisu and coffee. I’m sure there are more epic & fantastic places to eat (All’Antico Vinaio, you’re still on my list), but I was just not up to the waiting, standing, and crowds.
Post lunch, we headed over to the Duomo. There was a line, but it was moving quickly. I don’t remember exactly how long we were in line, but the only bothersome thing was standing in the sun. Otherwise, the time flew by just studying the exterior of this beautiful building. The outside of the cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. There’s beautiful panels of marble and shades of white, pink, and green…and wondrous sculptures.
We did some walking around after seeing the main floor of the cathedral. We walked to Piazza della Singnoria – a large open square in front of Palazzo Vecchio (Florence’s town hall). There’s a replica of Michelangelo’s statue of David here and a famous Neptune fountain that was commissioned by the Medici family and completed in 1574. The Uffizi gallery is about a two minute walk from Palazzo Vecchio, but we did not make advance reservations. We will have to save a visit to this famous collection of Renaissance art for a future visit. We found our way to the Ano River and Ponte Vecchio (the “old bridge”). This is a medieval stone bridge that spans the river – it is also the only bridge in Florence that was spared from destruction in World War II. There’s quite a bit of history relevant to this landmark and the bridge now mainly houses jewelry and goldsmith shops since 1565.
We began walking back in the direction of the train station. We stopped in a pizza shop, ordered a spritz, and just sat people watching & sipping on the patio. There was some hubub at one point in the restaurant – someone trying to pickpocket a patron and a restaurant worker yelling. That pretty much wrapped up our excitement in Florence. It was short and sweet, but I’d love to see more in the future.
We only spent 5-6 hours in Modena, but what a fabulous place! It was easy to catch a train from Bologna Centrale to Modena- the ride was between 20 & 30 minutes. The central area of the city is about a 1 mile stroll from the train station. For some reason, I instantly felt more relaxed and at ease in Modena. It was like a breath of fresh air.
At the heart of the city, lies the main Cathedral, Piazza Grande, and Ghirlandina Tower. The glorious 12th century Romanesque architecture is just breathtaking. Don’t take my word for it, this area has been considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. In the main square, we quickly stepped into the official tourist information site of Modena and grabbed a map. Then we went next door to Caffè dell’Orologio, ordered a spritz, sat took in the scenery, and decided what we wanted to see.
Naturally, we decided we must check out Mercato Albinelli – a must visit destination for food lovers. It was just a short walk through Piazza Grande. This historic covered market was established in 1931. Walking in, you’re quickly captivated – something wonderful to see everywhere your eyes land…meat, cheese, fish, wine, produce, merchants, tables, glasses, visitors enjoying charcuterie…it’s just a gastronomical wonderland. It’s a little glimpse into the glory of all the food products and traditions of Modenese cuisine. This market is open Monday- Saturday 7a-3p. I could easily spend a fortune in a place like this, but without a kitchen to cook in…we only purchased a rather large arancino to share.
some of the many amazing things in the historic Albinelli market
Our next stop was La Consorteria 1966. This shop is dedicated to Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena PDO, and you can taste and compare the products of many different vinegar makers from the area. There is a lot to know about traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena…there are rules/criteria to meet (origin, ingredients, age, certification, bottle, and labeling). While I do not know everything on the subject, I was quickly struck with how similar this can be to American bourbon whiskey. Both involve barrel aging, and criteria. A woman in the shop let us know we could pay for a tasting or that tasting is complimentary with a purchase. I could think of no better souvenir from Modena…so, this was a no brainer. My whiskey tasting experience helped me quickly steer toward my preferences. I landed on my favorite – a vinegar aged at least 25 year in oak barrels by Acetaia del Cristo. It was so much fun to taste things side by side – seeing how age, wood, and producer can change flavor. I already know I like things aged in oak…but it was fun to see that come across as true here, too. It’s also spectacular to taste how barrel aging can round off some of the sharp/sour/tart notes in vinegar.
We took a short walk from La Consorteria 1966 to Palazzo dei Musei (Museums Palace). This is a historic complex housing several museums and historical archives, including the Galleria Estense and the Biblioteca Estense, showcasing a vast collection of art, artifacts, and manuscripts. We enjoyed browsing Roman artifacts in the west wing – Museo Lapidario Romano. You can also browse the portico of the internal courtyard which houses the Museo Lapidario Estense and more engraved/stone artifacts. We were going to check out the Civic Museum of Modena, but their hours are 9a-12p Tues-Fri and 10a-7p Saturday-Sunday.
We walked back toward the city center – we noticed a memorial service in process at the cathedral. It was also beginning to look like rain. We weren’t quite ready to leave – and it seemed we were likely to get caught in a shower on the way back to the train station. So, we wisely decided to stop at a large cafe situated right on the edge of the Piazza Grande – Caffè Concerto. I had a Negroni and Ronald had a spritz with Lambrusco. We were also served some traditional aperitivo snacks with our drinks.
Overall, I think Modena is a lovely place to slow down and enjoy the day. I’m sure there’s plenty more to explore here on a return visit. We didn’t even get into exploring the motor valley. Modena is known as he car capital of Italy (or even the world), the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, home of Maserati, Pagani, and Autodromo di Modena. I know in my soul…there is more food here calling me to return.
Food may be a little bit of a “tyranny of choice” situation in Italy. There are so many fantastic choices – you start to get overwhelmed. Everywhere you turned – there was a spot to grab a tasty sandwich at the very least. We had a few occasions where that was exactly what we needed. The day we took a train to Florence – we stopped into the small grocery store attached to the Bologna Centrale station and grabbed quick lunch items. I had a sandwich roll, and I tore it open and filled it with prosciutto. A perfect meal on the go!
bread…cured meat…cheese…can’t losepost F1 adventure meal in the room
I did a little preliminary research, and I had some traditional Bolognese foods/dishes on my “hit list” and a few places bookmarked. We didn’t stress or plan too much…if we were near a spot on my list and hungry we ducked in. We had a tentative plan for a few lunches/dinners. I’ll just run down the list of things/places we enjoyed!
crescentina with mortadella
Tamburini – This salsamenteria (kind of like a deli counter) has been around since 1932. We ducked in around 11 am on a Monday morning and ordered a crescentina with mortadella 🤌🏻 and a second with prosciutto crudo. Crescentina is a fried bread delicacy from Emilia-Romagna – usually eaten with cured meat and/or cheese. This was a perfect take away grab and let me tell you it was RICH.
Inside Tamburini 🤯
MozzaBella – this location we happened on inside Mercato dell Erbe (the largest covered market in the historical city center). I believe this is a Bolognese small pizza chain with locations in Bologna and Modena. They take their pizza inspiration from Neapolitan style pizza. We had pizza a couple of times while in Italy – and it was shocking how good it always was. Simple…but high quality ingredients and you have a winner.
Sfoglia Rina – We enjoyed this spot so much – we went twice during our visit. This beloved restaurant has roots as a local fresh pasta shop in the 1960s. The family modernized, transformed and expanded the business beginning in the 2000s. There is a location near the Bologna historic city center – not far from Piazza Maggiore and Quadrilatero. They have some amazing prepared dishes and fresh pasta for takeaway, and they have a restaurant area. The menu is divided into two sections – a traditional section that always has the Bolognese classics and a seasonal section with a lean towards reinterpreting traditions. On our first visit, we went traditional Lasagna alla Bolognese and Tortellini in Parmesan Cream. Second visit, we split up traditional – Tagliatelle with Ragù and seasonal – Green Triangles of Mortadella and Stracciatella, pistachio, butter, tomatoes, honey, grated lemon. This place is very popular at lunch time – and there can be a line. We managed to be nearly first in line on our second visit (that bourbon hunting instinct paying off 🤣). When you’re seated – you can check out the menu boards, and there’s paper on the table where you write down your order. Your dish will come with the day’s side dish and bread. Everything we had here was spectacular and at the same time comforting.
Sfoglia RinaLasagne alla BologneseTortellini in Parmesan CreamTagliatelle with Ragumortadella, stracciatella and pistachio filled pasta in butter, honey and grated lemonapple cake
La Prosciutteria – I first bookmarked a location of La Prosciutteria in Florence while watching a travel video. When my friend Renee discovered I was in Bologna, she sent me a link for the location in Bologna and recommended we check it out. SOLD! So, this place is a chain, and it seems very popular. It’s hard to know if it’s locally popular or – you know – tourist popular. We enjoyed a bottle of wine and the gourmet Tuscan cutting board that featured cured meat cuts, cheeses, crostini, vegetables, fruit, and jam. I also couldn’t resist finishing off the experience with a little Vin Santo and cantucci. There is no shortage of places to eat a sampling of local cured meat and/or cheese. They’re everywhere!
Vin Santo and cantuccicouldn’t resist a #roxtails photo op with a La Proscuitteria spritz
Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla – OMG…Gelato! I wish I had something right now – as divine as the “Divino” gelato I had from this spot. It’s described as pistachio pesto with cervia salt…it has that lightly sweet and rich thing going on…with a hint of salty pistachio. So good! I’m trying to remember what flavor Ronald had, and I think I must’ve been too engrossed in mine to notice 🤣. We also had a drive by gelato at OGGI, but I didn’t think it was as good as Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla.
Osteria Al 15 – This was a delightful and completely unpretentious spot to close out our visit to Bologna. Style and presentation may have been a bit “homey”, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying ourselves. The service was warm and not intrusive. We shared a bottle of wine and we started with Pesto alla Modenese and Tigelle. The best way to describe Pesto Modenese is like pork butter with herbs – a spread made from ground up lardo, garlic and rosemary. As the name would suggest, it hails from Modena. Tigelle is a traditional type of flat bread from Emilia-Romagna. It is usually shaped like a little flat disc, and it is cut open and spread with pesto alla Modenese or stuffed with cured meat or cheese. We had a first course that we shared of lasagne alla Bolognese and tortelloni with butter and sage. We shared a second course of pork Milanese – a crispy breaded pork cutlet with sauce/gravy and potatoes. We finished up with delicious cheesecake and Americanos. It was quite decadent for a late lunch, but a perfect fit for the day. We basically finished our packing and did a little walking around before getting to bed early for an early flight.
pesto alla Modenesetigelletortelloni with sage butter and lasagne alla Bolognesebreaded pork Milano stylecheesecake
Let’s talk about coffee/espresso and breakfast. Good espresso is EVERYWHERE in Italy. It’s like a divine right. Most mornings we stopped in some new spot. Ronald would have an Americano, and I would have a cappuccino. We usually paired it with a croissant. Just people watching this daily ritual is quite fun – taking an espresso is something very no nonsense.
We discovered a humorous spot for coffee called 12oz Coffee Joint. I suppose it caught our attention because there were several locations around where we stayed, and the noticeably larger coffee cups stood out. The story is it’s something like an American coffee inspired experience popular with the younger crowds in Italy. The company’s founder claims his teenage children would send him photos of giant coffee cups with whipped cream when they were abroad. He also realized after seeing a typical woman from Milan carrying a big cup of coffee along with her Louis Vuitton handbag – the time had come for this style of coffee shop in Italy. Read more on this background story here. We found it convenient on a few occasions, but mostly we found it entertaining. It’s like Italy’s Super Size or Route 44…but still just 12 oz 🤣🤣.
Also worth mentioning – we woke up Thursday morning to observe lots of vans and tents being set up in the plaza outside our hotel (Piazza XX Settembre). When we returned later in the day – it was clear a fair or market with street food galore was moving in. We found the information on Facebook , and noticed it would essentially be there for the rest of our stay. We couldn’t resist filled to order cannolis! Ronald had a few more adventurous options from some of the stalls. I started feeling kind of under the weather Thursday – so I was generally less interested in eating and drinking.
I’m certain we only scratched the surface, and we may have to return and experience more Bolognese cuisine. I was able to check many things off my list though…tortellini, tortelloni, tagliatelle with ragu, lasagne alla Bolognese, pidadina, crescentina, tigelle, mortadella, prosciuotto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar (the good stuff! another post is coming about Modena), squacquerone, gelato, Lambrusco, and Pignoletto.
The Porticoes of Bologna were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2021. Porticoes are everywhere in Bologna – over 60km worth. These covered walkways are definitely one of the city’s defining architectural features. Beginning in the middle ages, porticoes were established and spread in a somewhat capillary network- they were once made of wood and eventually brick and stone and finally reinforced concrete. In fact, 13th century law made porticoes compulsory – they were required for all new construction and any already existing buildings. This video is a great introduction to the mystique of porticoes in Bologna.
One of the most famous Porticoes in the city is the Portico di San Luca. It is the longest uninterrupted covered walkway in the world. It begins at Porta Saragozza (an ancient gate that was part of the original 13th century wall that surrounded the city) and takes you uphill to Santuario della Madonna di San Luca. (Sanctuary of the Madonna of Saint Luke). The path from Saragozza is just under 4km and it’s about 4,9km from the city center. The Sanctuary has been referenced as early as 1100 A.D. as a hermitage famous for a specific hermit called Euthymius who arrived from Constantinople carrying a cedar board with an ancient Byzantine image of the Virgin painted upon it. The current sanctuary church was built in the 18th century – replacing an earlier 15th century construction. The painting of the Madonna with Child, said to be painted by Saint Luke, is kept in a silver-plated copper case for protection. The sanctuary provides some amazing and panoramic views of the city below. The portico walk from Porta Saragozza to Santuario della Madonna di San Luca has been a pilgrimage or Bolognese rite of passage for centuries – a truly unique and exemplary version of this type of devotional covered walkway built in Italy’s baroque period/style.
The legend goes – that in the 15th century, excessive rain ruined crops and brought on famine. Monks decided to go down into the city in search of food. They, of course, took the Madonna with Child down into the city center with them. When they arrived, the rain stopped and the sun began to shine. The famine had been thwarted and an annual procession of the Madonna down into Bologna was born. This procession is a spring festival organized yearly – and the image of the Madonna is exhibited for a week in the center of Bologna at the cathedral of San Pietro. Some say the Portico di San Luca was established to protect the Madonna on this annual procession down into Bologna and back up to the sanctuary.
The ascent to the sanctuary through the portico is considered by the Bolognese an act of sacrifice, and it is said that reaching the sanctuary by foot can make a wish some true.
beginning Portico di San Luca near Porta Saragozza
If you know me, you know I love some mileage and memorial walking or rucking. So, there was never any doubt about my desire to tackle this ascent myself. Humorously enough, after our very long day walking for F1 in Imola, we told ourselves we would take it easy. Apparently, “take it easy” meant tackling the ascent of Portico di San Luca.
Shortly after leaving Porta Saragozza in under Portico di San Luca
We took a bus from our hotel area at Porta Galliera to Porta Saragozza, and off we went. The first 2km or so is fairly flat; and along this first section, you will find shops and cafés. We actually discovered the coolest vending area. Almost every snack and beverage imaginable is available in the vending machines…and more (see video below). There were signs in 7 languages on how to use the vending machines…and we must have been near the stadium primarily used for Bologna FC home games because there was another sign in Italian that said something about the purchase of alcohol in bottles and cans 2 hours before, during, and an hour after matches. We were so taken with it, we stopped and purchased some San Pellegrino Aranciata.
Vending area near Stadio Renato Dell’Ara
Shortly after the vending area, we passed through Arco del Meloncello. This is a very ornate 18th century Rococo structure/arch/portico/walkway that allowed pilgrims to cross the road (Via Saragozza) covered and uninterrupted. This is where your portico walk transitions from relatively flat/even to an ascent of alternating steps and inclines. This is also the point where shops and cafés are not longer along the route – so make sure you’ve got some water and have used the restroom before proceeding. This next 2km or so is where you begin to question your life choices 🤣. Fortunately, there are many little chapels, artwork, and dedications/memorials to honor the families that participated in the loan to establish/build the Portico di San Luca. These are great spots to stop and take a breather along the way.
many languagesone of our favorite Italian/European sipsview at Arco del MeloncelloArco del MeloncelloArco Del Meloncello
The views from the top and the church are definitely worth the climb. While the Portico di San Luca may be the most famous in Bologna – it is only about 4km of the over 60km of such covered walkways throughout the city. They’re everywhere and quite unique. We actually encountered rain several days during our visit, but abundant porticoes nearly made it a non issue.
I wish I had taken more photos of other porticoes – there are large/wide ones, narrow ones, high ones, ornate ones, etc. Here’s a great link with some more images. I remember specifically the Portico della Morte (portico of death) which now is home to a large bookstore, Liberia A. Nanni. If you visit Bologna, it’s impossible to miss the Porticoes. I highly recommend the adventure of Portico di San Luca. If you’re not up for walking – I understand there is also a tourist train that will take you from Piazza Maggiore up to the Santuraio della Madonna di San Luca, too.
The inspiration for this adventure kicked off with F1 in Imola (see that entry here). Bologna is the nearest largely populated city to the circuit in Imola- making it an easy choice for our stay. It is the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region in Northern Italy. This region is well-known for its food production (Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, balsamic vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma, wine, tortellini, mortadella, and so much more) and also automobile production (home of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, and more). It didn’t take much to convince me I would enjoy this visit – based on its gastronomy alone.
Le Due Torri
Bologna is often referred to as “La Dotta, la Grassa, e la Rossa” (The Learned, the Fat, and the Red). The Learned – represents the city is the home of the Western world’s oldest university with history beginning in 1088. La Grassa – represents the exquisite cuisine and gastronomic heritage. La Rossa – is in reference to the red hued teracotta rooftops and historically left leaning politics.
We essentially stayed 8 nights in Bologna, and we opted to stay near the main train/transit station – Bologna Centrale. This served us well – as we essentially also made day trips from our home base to Imola, Modena and Florence, too. (Modena and Florence will get their own posts soon.) Our hotel was straightforward and seemed to generally be business traveler oriented. The woman at reception was so fantastic on our arrival. I suspect we were probably the last reservation to check in (as it was VERY LATE), and she greeted us by name. She smartly deduced we were there for “Formula Uno”, and gave us some great directions on getting to the train and walking from the Imola station to the track. She also gave us a map and quick orientation to where we were and in relation to most of the central/major attractions.
Porta GallieraCastle Galliera RuinsRoman ruins at Biblioteca SalaborsaQuadrilateroPortico de San Luca
I loved that just outside our hotel was Porta Galliera, an old gate/portal that was once part of the city’s medieval outer wall. Best I can tell- the old gate was originally constructed in the 14th century, completely rebuilt in the 17th century and has seen many restorations and improvements through the years. Just a short distance away from the gate – you can also find some ruins of an ancient castle – Castello di Galliera or Rocca di Galliera. It was built close to the gate and former outer city walls by the papal government. It was also destroyed five times by the population in rebellion against the papal government.
some ruins of the old city wall and Castello di Galliera near our hotel
Just across Via dell’Indipendenza from our hotel you can see the steps leading up to Parco della Montagnola. This park is the oldest in the city – and it sits on an artificial plateau created by debris from the ruins of the 14th century Castello di Galliera. The park’s current layout is the direct result of a redesign ordered by Napoleon.
At our home base for this adventure, we were certainly in the midst of history rich places. The city center and famous Piazza Maggiore were about a 20 minute walk south down Via Indipendenza. This historic square was originally established around 1200 and was the first square to be built after the fall of the Roman empire. There’s lots to see in the central area – like the large clock tower, Neptune Fountain, Basilica di San Petronio, Le Due Torre (two ancient medieval leaning towers – Asinelli and Garisenda), Quadrilatero (all the gourmet vendors and cafés), and Biblioteca Salaborsa (the city’s library and a spot to view some ancient underground Roman ruins).
Piazza Maggiore
Most of our time in Bologna was spent walking, taking in the sites, and eating. As I started writing this Bologna blog, I realized I would again need to break things up. So, here are the links for separate posts on these some other Bologna visit topics:
Well, we finally made it to Italy! We were supposed to visit in March 2020, but we all know how that story went.
Humorously enough, when we were discussing where we wanted to go in Europe after what was supposed to be a work start for Ronald in Stockholm…we asked each other, “What’s the F1 schedule that week?” As it turned out, we discovered there would be racing at Imola May 17-19. That made things pretty easy to decide…we would travel from Stockholm to Bologna. We left Stockholm on Saturday morning, and had some significant flight delays…but we eventually made it to Bologna VERY late Saturday evening.
We were able to sleep and and have a bit of a slow start and get a little bit of our bearings before taking a train to Imola. Clearly, there were lots of other F1 fans along for this train ride. The train was full but not too crowded and it took about 20 something minutes to arrive. Pretty much everyone was walking from the train station to the track. It’s a fairly direct and short 25 minute walk directly to the circuit from the station. We enjoyed strolling with all the other F1 fans through town. Many restaurants and shops had tables, booths, etc. set up along the street outside of their businesses to serve the influx of potential customers. As we were passing Piazza Antonio Gramsci (somewhat adjacent/near the major square – Piazza Matteotti), I spied a man making pizza with an oven mounted on a little truck/trike. (Later googling I discovered it was ironpinsa and a little Ape Car three wheeled vehicle.) I could tell by the crust coloring/blistering that we needed to pause and get some. Oh man! My visual crust detection game is strong! How good this simple slice of pizza was blew our minds!! We got a second slice.
It took some time to get through the lines to get our tickets scanned and into the circuit. (If you’re interested in reading more about the history of the track check out this article – Internazionale Enzo e Dino Ferrari.) Once inside, we made our way to the F1 Fanzone and we decided to grab a drink – Ronald got a beer and I was ecstatic to see that there was a spritz option. (After a week in Italy, it became obvious spritzes were EVERYWHERE…so of course this was an option.) Drinks were also very reasonably priced (reasonable for concessions at an event anyway) at €6 each. We hit up the official merchandise areas, and then we wandered to some of the nearer General Admission areas. We would have preferred to have seats, but we opted to do general admission as 1) in 2023 the race was canceled due to flooding and 2) you never know with air travel these days. Number 2 almost came into effect, too.
We walked between the famous Tamburello and Acque Minerali sections of the track…ultimately hanging out more near the grandstands by Acque Minerali because we could see some of the video coverage there. As the end of the race was nearing, we wandered again and found an area where we could essentially see the cars coming out of the DRS detection zone and traveling between turns 1 and 2…and we really were amazed at the perspective of being able to see in person just how fast the cars where going from right to left. As the race was in its closing laps, we actually made our way out of the circuit. We were hoping to be amongst the first back at the train station. Well, we were successful…but our timing just missed a departing train. Unfortunately, everyone caught up to us back at the station, too. The next train was running like 20 minutes late. So, the return trip was VERY crowded.
Getting back into Bologna, we grabbed in a sandwiches, chips, and drinks in a shop between the station and our hotel. We were DOG TIRED. The long travel day the day before plus all the walking and sun caught up with us. I think we covered around 9 miles that day. We basically showered, ate, and started to rewatch the race coverage and fell asleep straight away.
This is quite a large park near Årstaviken on the island of Sõdermalm. It’s not too far from the Hornstull metro station. It seems like quite a lovely and popular places for walking, picnicking, swimming, and there’s also many allotment gardens and garden sheds.
I first found myself in Tantolunden completely by accident. I think I wrote about it in this blog previously – but essentially I was walking off some jet lag and it also happened to be Midsummer. I was quite taken by the cute garden sheds, and as soon as I began strolling along the “beach” and bay…I remember thinking of Cooper my Labrador. I didn’t see too many dog walkers on that first walk. However, on this most recent visit to Stockholm in May, Ronald and I saw several people leisurely strolling with dogs. It particularly made me think of Cooper because I knew he would want to swim there. For part of the year, dogs are allowed to swim in this location…in summer they are not allowed as it is a pretty popular place to swim for people. I couldn’t help but wonder and also imagine that cold weather would not deter his desire to swim there.
Since our trip to Europe this year also coincided with the date that marked one year since saying goodbye to Cooper – I brought just a little of Coop’s ashes. I wanted to have a bit of of him with me especially on that day. I thought it would be nice to bring him to a place in Stockholm I always dreamed to take him…I often told him how much he would love it there. I cherish imagining him in that spot – running free and swimming and having the best day ever…as was always his way. We had a little drink of Weller 12 which was the end of the bottle and symbolized saying farewell as well as a nod to what should have been his 12th birthday. It was a peaceful moment and beautiful surroundings.
So, during my May trip to Stockholm – I was originally going to be entertaining myself. Ronald was set to be working while I did whatever I wanted. Being the spirits/cocktail nerd that I am, I had a list going of places I wanted to visit. I suppose Stockholms Bränneri had escaped my interest in my 2017 and 2019 visits – perhaps because I was not as much into spirits beyond whisk(e)y (yet). However, in bookmarking places – it quickly went to the top of my to do list. I noticed on their website they offer English tours, but our travel dates did not coincide with the English tour. We emailed the staff, and they recommended (as I was suspecting would work best) we book a table at their cocktail bar Brännerian. They advised flights of their spirits were available and someone could discuss with me the history and processes of the distillery.
Stockholms Bränneri is the first craft distillery in Stockholm. They primarily produce gin, but also some vodka, aquavit, apèritifs, and some alcoholic and non-alcoholic packaged cocktails. They’re located in an old Jaguar shop on the island of Södermalm (sometimes referred to as the Brooklyn of Stockholm…this island is known for its trendy, hip, and creative vibes as well as an active nightlife). The distillery was founded in 2016, and is the vision of husband & wife pair Anna & Calle. Inspired by visiting such places in Canada, their goal is to have a production facility with high quality drinkables and also include space for people to visit, enjoy, and learn. Driven by a passion for food and drink – they’ve accomplished this with their distillery and on site bar Brännerian. The bar program is innovative and experimental – producing nearly everything that goes in to the drinks in their own lab.
I started my visit with a flight of gin. Shocking…I know…lol. The Dry Gin has a Nordic spin on the botanicals – juniper, coriander, angelica, lemon peel, heather, elderflower and rosemary. I found it quite enjoyable. It would be versatile and work in many gin cocktails. There’s a Pink Gin which incorporates rhubarb and rose petals – so it takes on the slightest touch of floral notes. I particularly enjoy the Oak Gin (again shocking) as it spends some time in ex bourbon barrels and takes on some of the vanilla/wood sugar notes. Their Akvavit is like a marriage between aquavit and gin – it has notes of dill, caraway, fennel, and elderflower. I’m a big fan of aquavit…and I love it with strong caraway/rye bread flavor. The caraway is more subtle here and the dill is more prominent. Ronald started with a Rockefeller martini – it was Dry Gin, Navy Gin, vermouth, house made citrus bitters, spruce and mushroom oil and it’s served with an oyster. We also ordered bread with whipped butter and some Swedish cheese with a tart cherry spread. Everything was delicious. I also ordered the Hygge Old Fashioned. Their dry gin is fatwashed with bown butter, and it’s made into an old fashioned style cocktail with a bit of house made caramelized artichoke spirit, maple syrup and house made citrus and chocolate/cacao bitters.
As we were finishing up these beverages. Sean, the Brännerian bar manager, offered to show us the production facility and give us some background/history on the distillery. I didn’t know it at the time, but we were in the hands of one of Sweden’s highly accomplished bartenders. My first hint – we stepped into the distillery and bar “lab” and Sean began talking about the rotovap and how it is used to create various components for various cocktails. Conversation bloomed and the next thing you know I was asking for any recommendations on bars with good cocktail programs. He was so kind – and provided a list. I highly recommend checking out Brännerian and the distillery – the vibe and service are EXCELLENT. You can also pick up some of the spirits from Stockholms Bränneri at Systembologet. At home in Texas, I have been able to acquire the Akvavit, Dry Gin, and Pink Gin from Total Wine.
Sean’s recommendations took us to some really fun places and fantastic cocktails during the rest of our Stockholm stay.
First, we went to Tjoget. He advised that it would probably be better to check it out on a week night – because on the weekends it can get quite busy and have a very lively club like atmosphere. During the week it stays a little calmer – and the vibe is more popular neighborhood restaurant with a really solid bar/cocktail program. Between us, we had a Saturn (gin, vermouth. lemon oleo saccharum, salt, champagne vinegar), Fawlty Mai Tai (Cognac, rum, Yellow Chartreuse, rock candy syrup, basil orgeat, pistachio, lime) and Only The Fans (bourbon, rum, vermouth, pomegranate, absinthe, bitters). All cocktails were well executed and appropriate extensions of classics. The winner for me was the Only The Fans (that doesn’t really come as a surprise as whiskey is my general favorite spirit and stirred boozy cocktails are usually my preferred style).
Fairly late one evening- we made our way to Le Hibou at the Bank Hotel. This is a swanky/elegant rooftop/terrace bar on the top floor of the Bank Hotel in the city center. You can have a cocktail and scope out the view of the Stockholm “skyline”. Their menu tells a story with cocktails inspired by the various places (sights and buildings) that you can see from your seat along with a little history on them. The cocktails DO NOT disappoint – they’re imaginative and well executed. I fell in love with their take on a Manhattan – the Upper East Side which featured Maker’s Mark, Lillet Rosé, artic rasbperry, vanilla sugar and malic acid. I think it was probably my favorite of all cocktails from all the spots I visited in Stockholm this trip.
We also stopped in at A Bar Called Gemma – kind of early evening. If I were going to have a home base or my “Cheers” in Stockholm, it would be this bar. The atmosphere is contemporary/hip but also comfortable and laid back. It’s clear that they are passionate about cocktails, ingredients and process here. On our visit the menu was called “Devotion”. They had special sections devoted to “Jacking”, “Fermentation”, and “Pickling” on this menu as well as a selection of ABCG (A Bar Called Gemma) classics. The Jacking section features cocktails inspired by the early American process of making Applejack by freezing apple cider to concentrate it – often called “freeze distillation”. “Fermentation” features cocktails inspired by and utilizing the world’d oldest form of preservation – fermentation. The “Pickling” section features cocktails inspired by techniques using brine to draw out moisture prevent oxidation and again preserve things. The classics section features the bars more popular cocktails that are on the menu year round versus part of a seasonal menu. Another thing to note, their are numerous non-alcoholic options available on all sections of the menu that are created with the same passions and level of detail directed toward the alcoholic ones. During our visit, we tried the Velvet Thunder (from Fermentation- Maker’s Mark, Laird’s Jersey Lightning, Lustau PX Sherry, Fermented Chicha Morada, Citrus), Gemma (Classics- Bombay Sapphire Gin, Sake, Pistachio, Ginger, Citrus), Holy Wood (Fermentation- non-alcoholic, Palo Santo, Fermented Banana, Almond Orgeat, Tiki Tea, Orange, Lime), and Monferatto Hills (Jacking- non-alcoholic, Cloudberry Lemonade, Martini Floreale, Honey, Citrus, Soda water). Everything was fantastic – the namesake Gemma cocktail was a star and we loved the non-alcoholic Monferatto Hills.
Sean’s recommendations also included Lucy’s Flower Shop. Unfortunately, we didn’t make it there on this Stockholm trip, but I’m sure we will be able to in a future visit. I felt good about my pre-trip research/place bookmarking, too…basically, I already had A Bar Called Gemma and Lucy’s Flower Shop saved in my Stockholm map. I probably wouldn’t have considered Tjoget and Le Hibou though…and that Le Hibou Upper East Side really stole the show.
