Italy 2024, Firenze

We took a high speed train from Bologna Centrale to Florence, and the trip took about 40 minutes. I love that what would’ve taken about two hours driving can be cut down to a much more manageable time for a day trip.

As soon as we stepped off the train at Santa Maria Novella (the main train station in Florence) we were smacked with the observation that there were a lot more tourists in Florence than Bologna and Modena. A large group of people seemed to be waiting outside the train platform area – apparently many were waiting for platform information to be posted/announced on the departure boards. When we left later in the day, we had to do the same thing….it seems like the departure platform was only posted 15 minutes before departure. This was also the only station (in the three cities we visited) that had a security/ticket check in order to access the platforms.

I had the unfortunate circumstance of getting sick the night before we visited Florence. Fortunately, I did get into a pharmacy and was able to get some decongestant medication that helped immensely. The whole scenario did make me a little less enthusiastic than one should be about being in the birthplace of the Renaissance. Even though it was a quick in and out day trip and I didn’t feel great – I’m glad we were able to see a little glimpse of this iconic city.

Ronald wanted to see what the lines looked like for the Accademia Gallery (home to Michelangelo’s famous statue of David. We knew the lines would like be wild, and we were already under the impression that would would probably not be able to go in without a reservation and/or very long wait. As we navigated the 15 minute walk through narrow streets/sidewalks, crowds and the heat…I very quickly missed the Bolognese porticos. Not surprisingly there was an overwhelming crowd and lines of people WITH tickets/reservations awaiting their entrance times at the Accademia.

So, we then headed over to Mercato Centrale. This market is located in the San Lorenzo neighborhood just around the corner from the Duomo. The structure was designed by Giuseppe Mengoni and built in 1843. The typicaly 19th century building of iron and glass somewhat resembles a greenhouse and it essentially transformed the ancient city market in piazza della Repubblica to what it is today. When we walked in, there were people everywhere. The first floor is pimarily stalls and shops with meats, cheese, produce, oil, vinegar, wine, breads, pastries and more. There are also a few vendors where you can order food and small sections to sit and eat. The second floor is almost like a food court – filled with stalls serving a variety of dishes/foods and drinks. I quickly spied a mezzanine level perched above the food court tables. I noticed only a few people were sitting up there and I noticed arrows up a stairway indicating a pizzeria. I suggested we go check that out.

We were able to sit in relative comfort above the bustling crowd, and people watch while we ate…exactly what I needed.

view from the mezzanine at Mercato Centrale

I’m not usually one to pick my food based on where I get to sit to eat it…but the Neapolitan style pizza was great. I had a glass of Prosecco, and we finished everything off with tiramisu and coffee. I’m sure there are more epic & fantastic places to eat (All’Antico Vinaio, you’re still on my list), but I was just not up to the waiting, standing, and crowds.

Post lunch, we headed over to the Duomo. There was a line, but it was moving quickly. I don’t remember exactly how long we were in line, but the only bothersome thing was standing in the sun. Otherwise, the time flew by just studying the exterior of this beautiful building. The outside of the cathedral is a masterpiece of Gothic and Renaissance architecture. There’s beautiful panels of marble and shades of white, pink, and green…and wondrous sculptures.

We did some walking around after seeing the main floor of the cathedral. We walked to Piazza della Singnoria – a large open square in front of Palazzo Vecchio (Florence’s town hall). There’s a replica of Michelangelo’s statue of David here and a famous Neptune fountain that was commissioned by the Medici family and completed in 1574. The Uffizi gallery is about a two minute walk from Palazzo Vecchio, but we did not make advance reservations. We will have to save a visit to this famous collection of Renaissance art for a future visit. We found our way to the Ano River and Ponte Vecchio (the “old bridge”). This is a medieval stone bridge that spans the river – it is also the only bridge in Florence that was spared from destruction in World War II. There’s quite a bit of history relevant to this landmark and the bridge now mainly houses jewelry and goldsmith shops since 1565.

We began walking back in the direction of the train station. We stopped in a pizza shop, ordered a spritz, and just sat people watching & sipping on the patio. There was some hubub at one point in the restaurant – someone trying to pickpocket a patron and a restaurant worker yelling. That pretty much wrapped up our excitement in Florence. It was short and sweet, but I’d love to see more in the future.

Italy 2024, Modena

We only spent 5-6 hours in Modena, but what a fabulous place! It was easy to catch a train from Bologna Centrale to Modena- the ride was between 20 & 30 minutes. The central area of the city is about a 1 mile stroll from the train station. For some reason, I instantly felt more relaxed and at ease in Modena. It was like a breath of fresh air.

At the heart of the city, lies the main Cathedral, Piazza Grande, and Ghirlandina Tower. The glorious 12th century Romanesque architecture is just breathtaking. Don’t take my word for it, this area has been considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. In the main square, we quickly stepped into the official tourist information site of Modena and grabbed a map. Then we went next door to Caffè dell’Orologio, ordered a spritz, sat took in the scenery, and decided what we wanted to see.

Naturally, we decided we must check out Mercato Albinelli – a must visit destination for food lovers. It was just a short walk through Piazza Grande. This historic covered market was established in 1931. Walking in, you’re quickly captivated – something wonderful to see everywhere your eyes land…meat, cheese, fish, wine, produce, merchants, tables, glasses, visitors enjoying charcuterie…it’s just a gastronomical wonderland. It’s a little glimpse into the glory of all the food products and traditions of Modenese cuisine. This market is open Monday- Saturday 7a-3p. I could easily spend a fortune in a place like this, but without a kitchen to cook in…we only purchased a rather large arancino to share.

some of the many amazing things in the historic Albinelli market

Our next stop was La Consorteria 1966. This shop is dedicated to Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena PDO, and you can taste and compare the products of many different vinegar makers from the area. There is a lot to know about traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena…there are rules/criteria to meet (origin, ingredients, age, certification, bottle, and labeling). While I do not know everything on the subject, I was quickly struck with how similar this can be to American bourbon whiskey. Both involve barrel aging, and criteria. A woman in the shop let us know we could pay for a tasting or that tasting is complimentary with a purchase. I could think of no better souvenir from Modena…so, this was a no brainer. My whiskey tasting experience helped me quickly steer toward my preferences. I landed on my favorite – a vinegar aged at least 25 year in oak barrels by Acetaia del Cristo. It was so much fun to taste things side by side – seeing how age, wood, and producer can change flavor. I already know I like things aged in oak…but it was fun to see that come across as true here, too. It’s also spectacular to taste how barrel aging can round off some of the sharp/sour/tart notes in vinegar.

We took a short walk from La Consorteria 1966 to Palazzo dei Musei (Museums Palace).
This is a historic complex housing several museums and historical archives, including the Galleria Estense and the Biblioteca Estense, showcasing a vast collection of art, artifacts, and manuscripts. We enjoyed browsing Roman artifacts in the west wing – Museo Lapidario Romano. You can also browse the portico of the internal courtyard which houses the Museo Lapidario Estense and more engraved/stone artifacts. We were going to check out the Civic Museum of Modena, but their hours are 9a-12p Tues-Fri and 10a-7p Saturday-Sunday.

We walked back toward the city center – we noticed a memorial service in process at the cathedral. It was also beginning to look like rain. We weren’t quite ready to leave – and it seemed we were likely to get caught in a shower on the way back to the train station. So, we wisely decided to stop at a large cafe situated right on the edge of the Piazza Grande – Caffè Concerto. I had a Negroni and Ronald had a spritz with Lambrusco. We were also served some traditional aperitivo snacks with our drinks.

Overall, I think Modena is a lovely place to slow down and enjoy the day. I’m sure there’s plenty more to explore here on a return visit. We didn’t even get into exploring the motor valley. Modena is known as he car capital of Italy (or even the world), the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, home of Maserati, Pagani, and Autodromo di Modena. I know in my soul…there is more food here calling me to return.

Italy 2024, all the Bolognese Food

Food may be a little bit of a “tyranny of choice” situation in Italy. There are so many fantastic choices – you start to get overwhelmed. Everywhere you turned – there was a spot to grab a tasty sandwich at the very least. We had a few occasions where that was exactly what we needed. The day we took a train to Florence – we stopped into the small grocery store attached to the Bologna Centrale station and grabbed quick lunch items. I had a sandwich roll, and I tore it open and filled it with prosciutto. A perfect meal on the go!

I did a little preliminary research, and I had some traditional Bolognese foods/dishes on my “hit list” and a few places bookmarked. We didn’t stress or plan too much…if we were near a spot on my list and hungry we ducked in. We had a tentative plan for a few lunches/dinners. I’ll just run down the list of things/places we enjoyed!

Tamburini – This salsamenteria (kind of like a deli counter) has been around since 1932. We ducked in around 11 am on a Monday morning and ordered a crescentina with mortadella 🤌🏻 and a second with prosciutto crudo. Crescentina is a fried bread delicacy from Emilia-Romagna – usually eaten with cured meat and/or cheese. This was a perfect take away grab and let me tell you it was RICH.

Inside Tamburini 🤯

MozzaBella – this location we happened on inside Mercato dell Erbe (the largest covered market in the historical city center). I believe this is a Bolognese small pizza chain with locations in Bologna and Modena. They take their pizza inspiration from Neapolitan style pizza. We had pizza a couple of times while in Italy – and it was shocking how good it always was. Simple…but high quality ingredients and you have a winner.

Sfoglia Rina – We enjoyed this spot so much – we went twice during our visit. This beloved restaurant has roots as a local fresh pasta shop in the 1960s. The family modernized, transformed and expanded the business beginning in the 2000s. There is a location near the Bologna historic city center – not far from Piazza Maggiore and Quadrilatero. They have some amazing prepared dishes and fresh pasta for takeaway, and they have a restaurant area. The menu is divided into two sections – a traditional section that always has the Bolognese classics and a seasonal section with a lean towards reinterpreting traditions. On our first visit, we went traditional Lasagna alla Bolognese and Tortellini in Parmesan Cream. Second visit, we split up traditional – Tagliatelle with Ragù and seasonal – Green Triangles of Mortadella and Stracciatella, pistachio, butter, tomatoes, honey, grated lemon. This place is very popular at lunch time – and there can be a line. We managed to be nearly first in line on our second visit (that bourbon hunting instinct paying off 🤣). When you’re seated – you can check out the menu boards, and there’s paper on the table where you write down your order. Your dish will come with the day’s side dish and bread. Everything we had here was spectacular and at the same time comforting.

La Prosciutteria – I first bookmarked a location of La Prosciutteria in Florence while watching a travel video. When my friend Renee discovered I was in Bologna, she sent me a link for the location in Bologna and recommended we check it out. SOLD! So, this place is a chain, and it seems very popular. It’s hard to know if it’s locally popular or – you know – tourist popular. We enjoyed a bottle of wine and the gourmet Tuscan cutting board that featured cured meat cuts, cheeses, crostini, vegetables, fruit, and jam. I also couldn’t resist finishing off the experience with a little Vin Santo and cantucci. There is no shortage of places to eat a sampling of local cured meat and/or cheese. They’re everywhere!

Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla – OMG…Gelato! I wish I had something right now – as divine as the “Divino” gelato I had from this spot. It’s described as pistachio pesto with cervia salt…it has that lightly sweet and rich thing going on…with a hint of salty pistachio. So good! I’m trying to remember what flavor Ronald had, and I think I must’ve been too engrossed in mine to notice 🤣. We also had a drive by gelato at OGGI, but I didn’t think it was as good as Cremeria la Vecchia Stalla.

Osteria Al 15 – This was a delightful and completely unpretentious spot to close out our visit to Bologna. Style and presentation may have been a bit “homey”, but that didn’t stop us from enjoying ourselves. The service was warm and not intrusive. We shared a bottle of wine and we started with Pesto alla Modenese and Tigelle. The best way to describe Pesto Modenese is like pork butter with herbs – a spread made from ground up lardo, garlic and rosemary. As the name would suggest, it hails from Modena. Tigelle is a traditional type of flat bread from Emilia-Romagna. It is usually shaped like a little flat disc, and it is cut open and spread with pesto alla Modenese or stuffed with cured meat or cheese. We had a first course that we shared of lasagne alla Bolognese and tortelloni with butter and sage. We shared a second course of pork Milanese – a crispy breaded pork cutlet with sauce/gravy and potatoes. We finished up with delicious cheesecake and Americanos. It was quite decadent for a late lunch, but a perfect fit for the day. We basically finished our packing and did a little walking around before getting to bed early for an early flight.

Let’s talk about coffee/espresso and breakfast. Good espresso is EVERYWHERE in Italy. It’s like a divine right. Most mornings we stopped in some new spot. Ronald would have an Americano, and I would have a cappuccino. We usually paired it with a croissant. Just people watching this daily ritual is quite fun – taking an espresso is something very no nonsense.

We discovered a humorous spot for coffee called 12oz Coffee Joint. I suppose it caught our attention because there were several locations around where we stayed, and the noticeably larger coffee cups stood out. The story is it’s something like an American coffee inspired experience popular with the younger crowds in Italy. The company’s founder claims his teenage children would send him photos of giant coffee cups with whipped cream when they were abroad. He also realized after seeing a typical woman from Milan carrying a big cup of coffee along with her Louis Vuitton handbag – the time had come for this style of coffee shop in Italy. Read more on this background story here. We found it convenient on a few occasions, but mostly we found it entertaining. It’s like Italy’s Super Size or Route 44…but still just 12 oz 🤣🤣.

Also worth mentioning – we woke up Thursday morning to observe lots of vans and tents being set up in the plaza outside our hotel (Piazza XX Settembre). When we returned later in the day – it was clear a fair or market with street food galore was moving in. We found the information on Facebook , and noticed it would essentially be there for the rest of our stay. We couldn’t resist filled to order cannolis! Ronald had a few more adventurous options from some of the stalls. I started feeling kind of under the weather Thursday – so I was generally less interested in eating and drinking.

I’m certain we only scratched the surface, and we may have to return and experience more Bolognese cuisine. I was able to check many things off my list though…tortellini, tortelloni, tagliatelle with ragu, lasagne alla Bolognese, pidadina, crescentina, tigelle, mortadella, prosciuotto di Parma, Parmigiano Reggiano, balsamic vinegar (the good stuff! another post is coming about Modena), squacquerone, gelato, Lambrusco, and Pignoletto.

Italy 2024, Portico di San Luca

The Porticoes of Bologna were inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2021. Porticoes are everywhere in Bologna – over 60km worth. These covered walkways are definitely one of the city’s defining architectural features. Beginning in the middle ages, porticoes were established and spread in a somewhat capillary network- they were once made of wood and eventually brick and stone and finally reinforced concrete. In fact, 13th century law made porticoes compulsory – they were required for all new construction and any already existing buildings. This video is a great introduction to the mystique of porticoes in Bologna.

One of the most famous Porticoes in the city is the Portico di San Luca. It is the longest uninterrupted covered walkway in the world. It begins at Porta Saragozza (an ancient gate that was part of the original 13th century wall that surrounded the city) and takes you uphill to Santuario della Madonna di San Luca. (Sanctuary of the Madonna of Saint Luke). The path from Saragozza is just under 4km and it’s about 4,9km from the city center. The Sanctuary has been referenced as early as 1100 A.D. as a hermitage famous for a specific hermit called Euthymius who arrived from Constantinople carrying a cedar board with an ancient Byzantine image of the Virgin painted upon it. The current sanctuary church was built in the 18th century – replacing an earlier 15th century construction. The painting of the Madonna with Child, said to be painted by Saint Luke, is kept in a silver-plated copper case for protection. The sanctuary provides some amazing and panoramic views of the city below. The portico walk from Porta Saragozza to Santuario della Madonna di San Luca has been a pilgrimage or Bolognese rite of passage for centuries – a truly unique and exemplary version of this type of devotional covered walkway built in Italy’s baroque period/style.

The legend goes – that in the 15th century, excessive rain ruined crops and brought on famine. Monks decided to go down into the city in search of food. They, of course, took the Madonna with Child down into the city center with them. When they arrived, the rain stopped and the sun began to shine. The famine had been thwarted and an annual procession of the Madonna down into Bologna was born. This procession is a spring festival organized yearly – and the image of the Madonna is exhibited for a week in the center of Bologna at the cathedral of San Pietro. Some say the Portico di San Luca was established to protect the Madonna on this annual procession down into Bologna and back up to the sanctuary.

The ascent to the sanctuary through the portico is considered by the Bolognese an act of sacrifice, and it is said that reaching the sanctuary by foot can make a wish some true.

If you know me, you know I love some mileage and memorial walking or rucking. So, there was never any doubt about my desire to tackle this ascent myself. Humorously enough, after our very long day walking for F1 in Imola, we told ourselves we would take it easy. Apparently, “take it easy” meant tackling the ascent of Portico di San Luca.

Shortly after leaving Porta Saragozza in under Portico di San Luca

We took a bus from our hotel area at Porta Galliera to Porta Saragozza, and off we went. The first 2km or so is fairly flat; and along this first section, you will find shops and cafés. We actually discovered the coolest vending area. Almost every snack and beverage imaginable is available in the vending machines…and more (see video below). There were signs in 7 languages on how to use the vending machines…and we must have been near the stadium primarily used for Bologna FC home games because there was another sign in Italian that said something about the purchase of alcohol in bottles and cans 2 hours before, during, and an hour after matches. We were so taken with it, we stopped and purchased some San Pellegrino Aranciata.

Vending area near Stadio Renato Dell’Ara

Shortly after the vending area, we passed through Arco del Meloncello. This is a very ornate 18th century Rococo structure/arch/portico/walkway that allowed pilgrims to cross the road (Via Saragozza) covered and uninterrupted. This is where your portico walk transitions from relatively flat/even to an ascent of alternating steps and inclines. This is also the point where shops and cafés are not longer along the route – so make sure you’ve got some water and have used the restroom before proceeding. This next 2km or so is where you begin to question your life choices 🤣. Fortunately, there are many little chapels, artwork, and dedications/memorials to honor the families that participated in the loan to establish/build the Portico di San Luca. These are great spots to stop and take a breather along the way.

The views from the top and the church are definitely worth the climb. While the Portico di San Luca may be the most famous in Bologna – it is only about 4km of the over 60km of such covered walkways throughout the city. They’re everywhere and quite unique. We actually encountered rain several days during our visit, but abundant porticoes nearly made it a non issue.

I wish I had taken more photos of other porticoes – there are large/wide ones, narrow ones, high ones, ornate ones, etc. Here’s a great link with some more images. I remember specifically the Portico della Morte (portico of death) which now is home to a large bookstore, Liberia A. Nanni. If you visit Bologna, it’s impossible to miss the Porticoes. I highly recommend the adventure of Portico di San Luca. If you’re not up for walking – I understand there is also a tourist train that will take you from Piazza Maggiore up to the Santuraio della Madonna di San Luca, too.

Italy 2024, Bologna

The inspiration for this adventure kicked off with F1 in Imola (see that entry here). Bologna is the nearest largely populated city to the circuit in Imola- making it an easy choice for our stay. It is the capital city of the Emilia-Romagna region in Northern Italy. This region is well-known for its food production (Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, balsamic vinegar, Prosciutto di Parma, wine, tortellini, mortadella, and so much more) and also automobile production (home of Ferrari, Lamborghini, Maserati, and more). It didn’t take much to convince me I would enjoy this visit – based on its gastronomy alone.

Le Due Torri

Bologna is often referred to as “La Dotta, la Grassa, e la Rossa” (The Learned, the Fat, and the Red). The Learned – represents the city is the home of the Western world’s oldest university with history beginning in 1088. La Grassa – represents the exquisite cuisine and gastronomic heritage. La Rossa – is in reference to the red hued teracotta rooftops and historically left leaning politics.

We essentially stayed 8 nights in Bologna, and we opted to stay near the main train/transit station – Bologna Centrale. This served us well – as we essentially also made day trips from our home base to Imola, Modena and Florence, too. (Modena and Florence will get their own posts soon.) Our hotel was straightforward and seemed to generally be business traveler oriented. The woman at reception was so fantastic on our arrival. I suspect we were probably the last reservation to check in (as it was VERY LATE), and she greeted us by name. She smartly deduced we were there for “Formula Uno”, and gave us some great directions on getting to the train and walking from the Imola station to the track. She also gave us a map and quick orientation to where we were and in relation to most of the central/major attractions.

I loved that just outside our hotel was Porta Galliera, an old gate/portal that was once part of the city’s medieval outer wall. Best I can tell- the old gate was originally constructed in the 14th century, completely rebuilt in the 17th century and has seen many restorations and improvements through the years. Just a short distance away from the gate – you can also find some ruins of an ancient castle – Castello di Galliera or Rocca di Galliera. It was built close to the gate and former outer city walls by the papal government. It was also destroyed five times by the population in rebellion against the papal government.

some ruins of the old city wall and Castello di Galliera near our hotel

Just across Via dell’Indipendenza from our hotel you can see the steps leading up to Parco della Montagnola. This park is the oldest in the city – and it sits on an artificial plateau created by debris from the ruins of the 14th century Castello di Galliera. The park’s current layout is the direct result of a redesign ordered by Napoleon.

At our home base for this adventure, we were certainly in the midst of history rich places. The city center and famous Piazza Maggiore were about a 20 minute walk south down Via Indipendenza. This historic square was originally established around 1200 and was the first square to be built after the fall of the Roman empire. There’s lots to see in the central area – like the large clock tower, Neptune Fountain, Basilica di San Petronio, Le Due Torre (two ancient medieval leaning towers – Asinelli and Garisenda), Quadrilatero (all the gourmet vendors and cafés), and Biblioteca Salaborsa (the city’s library and a spot to view some ancient underground Roman ruins).

Most of our time in Bologna was spent walking, taking in the sites, and eating. As I started writing this Bologna blog, I realized I would again need to break things up. So, here are the links for separate posts on these some other Bologna visit topics: