We only spent 5-6 hours in Modena, but what a fabulous place! It was easy to catch a train from Bologna Centrale to Modena- the ride was between 20 & 30 minutes. The central area of the city is about a 1 mile stroll from the train station. For some reason, I instantly felt more relaxed and at ease in Modena. It was like a breath of fresh air.
At the heart of the city, lies the main Cathedral, Piazza Grande, and Ghirlandina Tower. The glorious 12th century Romanesque architecture is just breathtaking. Don’t take my word for it, this area has been considered a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1997. In the main square, we quickly stepped into the official tourist information site of Modena and grabbed a map. Then we went next door to Caffè dell’Orologio, ordered a spritz, sat took in the scenery, and decided what we wanted to see.
Naturally, we decided we must check out Mercato Albinelli – a must visit destination for food lovers. It was just a short walk through Piazza Grande. This historic covered market was established in 1931. Walking in, you’re quickly captivated – something wonderful to see everywhere your eyes land…meat, cheese, fish, wine, produce, merchants, tables, glasses, visitors enjoying charcuterie…it’s just a gastronomical wonderland. It’s a little glimpse into the glory of all the food products and traditions of Modenese cuisine. This market is open Monday- Saturday 7a-3p. I could easily spend a fortune in a place like this, but without a kitchen to cook in…we only purchased a rather large arancino to share.
Our next stop was La Consorteria 1966. This shop is dedicated to Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena PDO, and you can taste and compare the products of many different vinegar makers from the area. There is a lot to know about traditional balsamic vinegar of Modena…there are rules/criteria to meet (origin, ingredients, age, certification, bottle, and labeling). While I do not know everything on the subject, I was quickly struck with how similar this can be to American bourbon whiskey. Both involve barrel aging, and criteria. A woman in the shop let us know we could pay for a tasting or that tasting is complimentary with a purchase. I could think of no better souvenir from Modena…so, this was a no brainer. My whiskey tasting experience helped me quickly steer toward my preferences. I landed on my favorite – a vinegar aged at least 25 year in oak barrels by Acetaia del Cristo. It was so much fun to taste things side by side – seeing how age, wood, and producer can change flavor. I already know I like things aged in oak…but it was fun to see that come across as true here, too. It’s also spectacular to taste how barrel aging can round off some of the sharp/sour/tart notes in vinegar.
We took a short walk from La Consorteria 1966 to Palazzo dei Musei (Museums Palace).
This is a historic complex housing several museums and historical archives, including the Galleria Estense and the Biblioteca Estense, showcasing a vast collection of art, artifacts, and manuscripts. We enjoyed browsing Roman artifacts in the west wing – Museo Lapidario Romano. You can also browse the portico of the internal courtyard which houses the Museo Lapidario Estense and more engraved/stone artifacts. We were going to check out the Civic Museum of Modena, but their hours are 9a-12p Tues-Fri and 10a-7p Saturday-Sunday.
We walked back toward the city center – we noticed a memorial service in process at the cathedral. It was also beginning to look like rain. We weren’t quite ready to leave – and it seemed we were likely to get caught in a shower on the way back to the train station. So, we wisely decided to stop at a large cafe situated right on the edge of the Piazza Grande – Caffè Concerto. I had a Negroni and Ronald had a spritz with Lambrusco. We were also served some traditional aperitivo snacks with our drinks.
Overall, I think Modena is a lovely place to slow down and enjoy the day. I’m sure there’s plenty more to explore here on a return visit. We didn’t even get into exploring the motor valley. Modena is known as he car capital of Italy (or even the world), the birthplace of Enzo Ferrari, home of Maserati, Pagani, and Autodromo di Modena. I know in my soul…there is more food here calling me to return.